Puppy Culture {Texas Husky Breeder}

There is a lot of hype and misinformation surrounding Puppy Culture. So I wanted to share my experiance with it.

I was originally a skeptic. I had a hard time believing breeders needed a program to raise puppies. I have been using enrichment, practicing socialization, even doing potty box training and crate conditioning all without Puppy Culture for over 6 years. After hearing many breeders bragging about it, I decided to invest in the program to see what it was all about. I was very intrigued by what I saw. I began incorporating Puppy Culture protocols into our program. I loved how the science behind these protocols were explained. The results were amazing and it took what I was already doing and expanded on that by a thousand! These little guys are so smart and ready to learn. My husband was beyond annoyed that I was spending so much money on the program because he felt I was already doing so much…. but he was blown away when he watched our puppies successfully manding. He fully supports the program now. I am committed to raising our puppies with this program and I am inspired to re train my adults.

With that being said I want to clear up a few things about the program.

*Puppy Culture is not the same as typical enrichment and socialization. Yes, It involves both concepts but it is so much more. So don’t let cute toys and fun equipment in a puppy pen confuse you. Puppy Culture is specific protocols introduced at specific stages of development. You can watch a video about Puppy Culture HERE.

*I am not a better than anyone else because I use Puppy Culture and you can certainly purchase a healthy, happy puppy that hasn’t been raised with Puppy Culture. But for me, I feel I am a better breeder than I was a year ago and I feel it is up to me to make sure I offer puppies who well rounded, even tempered, properly socialized, and who are emotionally and physically ready for family life.

*Puppy Culture is ideal for puppies 0-12 weeks but many of the protocols can be introduced at a later stage In fact I recommended all my buyers continue with Puppy Culture when they bring their puppies home. It is not to late to use Puppy Culture for your puppy even if they were not raised with it!! If you would like to purchase Puppy Culture or view all the video and books in the program please click HERE.

If you have any questions about my program or how I raise my puppies please feel free to message me. .

Videos of our puppies Manding: For more info on Manding Click HERE:

Prices, Propaganda, Embellishments, Lies.. OH MY! {Texas Husky Breeder}

Breeders all price their puppies differently. Some price based on quality (show quality, vs pet quality) some based on pedigree (bloodlines), some on the type of registration, some on the time and effort they put into raising the puppy, some are priced to sell fast, some are priced to make as much profit as they can, and some are priced by location and the going rate…… What a breeder chooses to charge for their puppies is their business, and there is no right or wrong….unless what they charge is based on propaganda, embellishments, and lies.

When you decide to purchase a puppy from a breeder, I hope that you research them, and ask them questions about their breeding program. Some warning signs to look for are breeders who charge more for gender, color (eye or coat) coat type (woolly), etc. There are no rare colors or coats in the husky breed and one is not more valuable then another. With the exception of woolly coats, woolly coats are considered faults in the show ring and are not breed standard so if you are looking to show or want a puppy that represents breed standards, you would want to stay away from woolly. While some registration may have a higher value depending what you are looking for (show vs pet), a non registered pup should never be higher than a registered pup. Also if a person claims the dog has champion lines or working lines, ask to see the pedigree, anything back further then 3 generations has very little effect on the puppy being sold. Watch out for people who make up things like “gold champion” and “double champion”. If the parents are being shown or are championed the breeder will be happy to show you proof by showing ribbons, photos of the dog with ribbons and judge and or certificates. Ask for proof of all claims made by the breeder, they should gladly supply it. In general pet quality prices should be greatly lower than show quality pups. I would question why a pet quality breeder is charging more than a show breeder. If the breeder says their prices are based on their lines, ask what makes them so special, they should be able to tell. Also anyone can buy a service dog vest and put it on their dog. That has very little merit without proof of the dog preforming it’s task. There is a huge difference between a dog who preforms a service/task and an emotional support animal….. one needs extensive training the other doesn’t. If they claim to train the pups, that they are seen by a vet, that they have health certificates, etc ask for documentation. Watch out for breeders who make outrageous claims about themselves,like being a veterinarian or a trainer. ASK FOR PROOF!!

Our current price for puppies is $850. I welcome all questions you may have about our prices. I raise pet quality puppies, sold on a spay/neuter contract. Our puppies are akc and or ckc registered. I provide the neopar (parvo) vaccination at about 5.5 weeks and our vet not only provides a hands on check up and fecal test (for parasites and protozoa) but they now administer the first combo shot at approximately 7.5 weeks. This guarantees the shot was in fact administered and administered properly but also that your vet will accept it and not re vaccinate. Many vets do not accept shots given by breeders and will restart the series, this is not only an added cost for you but also puts your puppy at risk for being over vaccinated. Puppies are sold with a 72 hour health guarantee and a genetic guarantee. Your puppy goes though ENS (early neurological stimulation) and is potty box trained making the transition to potty training seamless. We introduce age appropriate socialization and enrichment actives that include sights, sounds and smells. We have invested in the Puppy Culture program and each puppy is given one on one attention as they go through the Puppy Culture protocols. Puppy Culture introduces clicker training, introduces crate training and focuses on shaping a well rounded puppy with a great a temperament that easily adapts to new situations and is ready for more extensive puppy training that we hope you will continue. We video and photograph their progress. Our puppies are whelped and raised indoors in a clean environment where they quickly get accustom to family living and get attention from all family and pack members. We have 3 generations of dogs in our breeding program. Tyrion has working lines starting in his 3rd generation and Reign has champion lines starting in her 3rd generation and working lines starting in her 4th generation. Even so, I do not use that information to sell pups, and while that information can be considered fun facts, I personally feel that has little merit. Prices are subject to increase depending on many factors including on if we provide additional care for our puppies and if we use an outside stud with a valued pedigree (for example if we breed Reign to a show quality stud)

I think our current pricing is fair based on the care we provide for our pups, the work we put into our pups and in some cases the pedigree of our pups. Our pricing is about mid range in our location, meaning there are breeders who charge less and and breeders who charge more.

At the end of the day you pay for what you value and what you want in a pup and that is ok. I just hate to see good people lied to and manipulated into purchasing a pup. I have seen people brag about their show quality pups in groups only to be told their pup is far from show quality. There was even a recent headline about a breeder in San Antonio selling pups with forged vet documents. It is sad and heartbreaking the lengths people will go to to sell a dog.

There are great breeders locally and nationwide. If I do not have what you are looking for I have no problem recommending a breeder who might.

What’s New: {Texas Husky Breeder}

What’s New: 
All our puppies found wonderful homes and we are so thankful for our new puppy parents. We have 2 puppies that leave us Saturday and as always it will be bittersweet. I can use the rest but will miss them so much.

I have stared to look forward and plan for future litters. I outlined our plans on the website under “upcoming litters”. I am going to be completely honest I have no idea when the girls will cycle next. They synced up last heat which knocked several out of their normal cycle. I am going to assume the “typical” 6 month cycle but please note that my girls were previously cycling every 8/9 months. So all dates are estimates. 😀 If all 3 girls remain synced up I will breed 2, skip one then next time breed one, skip two. So have only 1 or 2 litters at a time and the girls will skip heats between breeding. With the amount of work we do with each litter it is best to limit the litters so we can give each puppy the attention they deserve. I am trying to focus more on raising puppies instead of just breeding them. If you are interested in an upcoming litter please watch for updates posted here on this page.

At this time we plan to move forward with 3 girls, Amara, Winter and Reign. Autumn will be getting spayed in a few weeks. If you have been following you know we considered this last year but our sweet Ghost had other plans. haha We are going to try to avoid that this time around. We want to keep our program small, and even though Autumn will no longer be bred she is our family and will remain here. I cant have coffee without Muffin cuddles and we know she will be a wonderful grandma and auntie!

I plan to continue with Puppy Culture, and while I was doing a variety of socialization and enrichment with our previous litters this program takes it even further and I feel really makes a difference. I am still learning, but I think as I become more familiar with it and proficient at it, it will be even better. I have already invested in more Puppy Culture training material and I look forward to studying and implementing that in our future litters.

We will continue with our vet approved deworming and vaccination schedule. I think it worked well with me administering Neopar at about 5.5 weeks and our vet doing a vet check, fecal and administering the combo vaccination at about 7.5 weeks.

We are still working on our kitchen, and I am excited that our hot mess of a house is getting the face lift it deserves. haha I am also trying to get our yard back in shape and I am trying to dedicate a portion of the yard for the pack and get them to use it. I am looking to build and or purchase equipment for them. I am excited that we only have a little over a month left of school, I love summers with my kiddo and the pack. 😀

If you have any questions please feel free to message me.

-Missy

Winter’s Labor and Whelping

*Note: I’m sharing Winter’s labor story more for my records (cause my memory sucks) but I thought others may enjoy it.

1/13/19: Winter ate a full breakfast. Because of this, when I took her temp I did not expect a drop. She has been fluctuating between 99.2 and 100.2 for 6 days. Temp was 98.8, I was surprised so used a different thermometer. and it was 99.6, tried at third time and it was 99.8. Winter seemed relaxed, and very calm. Took it again an hour later and it was 98.4. She went out to go potty, had an appetite and other then small panting sessions, she mostly napped.

1/14/19: Winter again ate breakfast. We were at 24 hours and I with no visible signs of labor (first or second stage) I began to wonder if I was wrong about the temp. Hours passed and she napped, with short bouts of panting. Around 1pm, I took her out to potty and she ran back in and went straight to the whelping pool. But once in she was very calm and continued to nap. Almost 31 hours passed temp dropped, I decided since she was in no distress to let her continue on her own and if no progress by the next morning, I would call the vet. Around 2:30 pm, Winter started to get restless, going in and out of the pool, laying down and standing up. At 3:00 pm she began to leak fluid and she started to visibly contract. By 3:13 pm the first puppy was delivered.

She was a bit frantic after the first puppy was born, I administered calcium and she was able to calm down a bit before the second pup was born. She was very attentive with each pup. She was a bit obsessive about the cords and kept wanting to chew even after they were cut. I was worried about her pulling to much on the already short cords so I gently redirected her focus when I noticed her trying to pull and chew the cords down even more. Other than that she did wonderful. About 6.5 hours between first and last puppy. She relaxed and settled downright away. I checked on her through out the night.

*This is the first litter where I had no visible sings of labor. Very different from what I was use to. If it wasn’t for the temp drop I would not have known she would be delivering soon. I use to laugh and think that taking the temp was silly because by the time it dropped, I could tell they were in labor. haha So this proves how useful taking their temp 2 times a day is. 😀

2019 Breeding Plans {Texas Siberian Husky Breeders}

Good Morning Friends! We are going to have a busy early 2019!  Mother Nature threw a curve ball at us, but it is not a surprise. Female canine’s cycle sync up just like human females.  Winter was originally “suppose” to come into heat back in Sept which would have been 8 months from her previous heat. Instead she waited until November and started her heat a week before Reign’s expected cycle.  We knew there was a chance this would happen.  What surprised us was that them both being in heat brought Amara into heat earlier than expected.  She and Autumn have been on the same cycle since they started.  After a lot of thought and discussion with family we decided to go ahead and allow her to breed with Ghost. She is due early February.  We think the spacing of the litters will make thing a bit easier. Developmentally Amara’s puppies will be behind Winter and Reign’s (if she is pregnant) making things easier on us. So far Autumn has not come into heat.  At this time we plan to skip Autumn’s next heat.   This will be hard for Autumn because she and Amara have always had litters at the same time. She loves being a mommy and is really good at it. We are worried about jealously issues so we will be keeping an eye on her.

We knew bringing more girls into our breeding program would be mean an increase in more litters at the sometime, but we do not want to overload ourselves or our girls. Their health is always our top propriety as is having the time to care for the litters and making sure we find them all forever homes.  At this time I plan on staying home and making sure everyone gets adequate attention and supervision.

Our upcoming litters page has info on our current plans.  We are taking deposits on Amara and Ghost’s litter.  I will be taking deposits on Winter’s litter once I can confirm pregnancy and I will NOT take deposits on Reign litter until after the litter is born. Puppy Applications will need to be on file for all new families. Puppy application does not guarantee you a puppy. I can refuse anyone a pup at anytime for any reason.

Please feel free to message me with any questions, or concerns.

Thank you,

Missy 😀

I love my companions {Texas Husky Breeder}

“You’re not a very reputable if you don’t show or work your dogs.”

This is just one of the things I see posted all the time. And to a point I agree.  I agree that dogs need a job.  Most dogs were bred with a purpose and they thrived knowing they were needed.  Even today they thrive knowing they matter and that  they are needed and valued. My dogs have a job, they are companions.  My mom was an owner/handler who showed in conformation and obedience. I respect and understand the show world. I admire mushers, admire the time they spend with their dogs, and how they keep them doing the job they were originally bred to do and that instinct still drives them to do. Truth be told, I hope to have my own cart soon even if South Texas temps are not very musher friendly.

Even if we don’t currently compete, my dogs have very important jobs as companions. They provided friendship to a lonely child (my son), they watch over babies, laying close and licking their little bare feet. They wake me up at 5 am so I don’t forget it’s coffee and cuddle time. Cause if I slept passed 5am it would be the end of the world!  *hehe* They go for rides to pick up my son from school, because they missed their boy and can’t wait to see him. They comfort him when he has a 104 fever, never leaving his side. They listen to my worries, dreams and hopes. They warm my feet on a cold day, and are my walking buddies when I’m trying to reach my step goal. They pile up on the bed and surround me when I’m anxious and help keep the panic attacks away. They lick my tears when I’m sad, and bark at strange noises when I am home alone. They greet my husband after being gone for a week, letting him know he is missed and loved. They swim, run, walk, dig, and climb. They are important to us and I’d like to think we are just as important to them. They have daily jobs, jobs they think are important and I would be lost without them.

If I can give another family a companion half as amazing as mine, give them smiles, sweet moments and happy memories and that makes anyone judge and label me, then I think the problem lies with them, not me.

Temperament and Behavior {Texas Husky Breeder}

Husky Temperament: Friendly, affectionate, eager to please. Huskies are high energy and can be stubborn. Huskies love to dig and are known escape artists. Huskies are known to  have a high prey drive and should be watched around small animals. Huskies need mental and physical stimulation, including enrichment activities, frequent walks, biking, and hiking. Boredom can result in destructive behaviors. Huskies are pack animals and need pack camaraderie. Huskies can be strong willed, training can be a challenge but huskies are also known to be food driven which helps in training. Be prepared to devote time and effort to train and exercise your pet or else you can have one unmanageable Husky on your hands. Huskies need confident owners, structure, boundaries, and consistency.

I found the above on a couple husky pages.  It was very easy to find. I ask all puppy buyers to fill out a puppy application. One of the questions I ask is “have you researched the breed fully”.  This is because it is your responsibility as a buyer to know about the breed you are buying and to know their typical breed temperament. I also ask if you are prepared to train your puppy. I suggest all families attend puppy training classes. Especially if you are a first time husky owner. Puppies need training, and boundaries to establish acceptable behavior. You have to make it clear early on what behavior is acceptable and what is not. What is cute at 10 weeks is not what is cute at 10 months. If you have children do not leave your puppy alone with them, and please, please teach both puppy and child acceptable behavior and how to interact with each other.

If you pack around your puppy constantly, you are setting your puppy up for separation anxiety.  It will be difficult to crate train and it will whine, and howl and even destroy if left alone.  You need to teach your puppy that it’s OK to be alone, and that when you leave, you come back. Remember that your puppy is not a human baby it is a canine. And while it needs love, attention and affection it needs to be a dog. Often times a new puppy gets all the attention, everyone wants to have a turn and pack him round, unfortunately once that newness wears off and the attention declines, the puppy has a hard time adjusting. As hard as it might be, give your new puppy time to play alone, and learn to entertain himself. Enrichment activities, stuffed toys (kongs), etc are all easy ways to give your puppy things to do, while you busy yourself with other things. With that being said they also need pack time, if you don’t have other dogs, you are their pack and they need interaction and play time with you.  They need walks, they need to run, they need to be pet and cuddled. This is NOT a dog you can just ignore and leave alone in the yard. If you have other dogs, you need to know that husky play is rough play, It’s like watching football in my yard. They chase, tackle, pin, throat grab, tail pull, bump each other and roll each other. It can get vocal, and look scary.  But they are just playing. We do have to watch for signs of it getting out of hand, because sometimes it does happen.  If you have smaller dogs, teach your husky that they have to be easy and you may not be able to let them play at all if his need to play like a husky is strong.

*I do not have any huskies with bad temperaments. I would never own them, let alone breed them. I have children, and grandchildren and grand-puppies that come to play.

*I do have huskies with typical husky temperaments, for example birds and squirrels are chased out of the yard if they are not caught, and our chickens have their own yard away from the pack.  I have holes in my yard, we have had cords chewed, and damage to our walls.

*I do have some puppies with bad behaviors. For example, Zuko is a jumper, and several of my pack are counter surfers and trash diggers.

*I do socialization and enrichment activities with all our puppies starting at just a few days old. I would never, never, release a puppy that I thought was ill tempered.  It is very important that you continue socialization, and training to help establish good behavior and habits.

*I am not a professional trainer, but all of my dogs are taught basic obedience. This makes things easier especially when we have up to 8 in the house at a time.

Do’s and Dont’s {Texas Husky Breeder}

Puppy Do’s and Dont’s. (according to me and my experience)

DO crate train! You would not leave a toddler alone and unsupervised in your home, why would you leave a puppy alone? You are setting yourself and the pup up for punishment and anger and it is not worth it. If you cannot supervise your pup, put them to “bed”. When you are cleaning, if you are outside mowing, leave to the grocery store, go to work or go to bed for the night! It is much easier to crate train a puppy at 8 weeks then try to crate train a 6 month old with bad habits. You can always crate train now and when they are older try to let them out at night to sleep with you, etc. Autumn was in a crate for one year in our room, next to my bed. It helped calm her being close to me. She now sleeps in my bed or on the floor next to my bed without eating clothes, furniture, etc. If you crate train have realistic expectations… Start right away! Know that they WILL cry, whine, howl, bite the wire, and generally hate it for the first 5 nights or so! Don’t give up. If the noise gets to you, try putting them in your room where they can see you! Or put them next to another dog’s crate if you have one.  Understand that they can NOT hold their bladder for long periods right now! They will need to be let out to potty at least once though out the night! You can try smaller periods of time by putting them in the crate in afternoon for an hour or so. Be happy and positive, give it a name “bedtime”, “kennel up”, etc. Take them out to potty, walk them or exercise them before crating them. Offer treats for going in and give them toys to chew on to prevent boredom. Baby gates are also good to keep them out of certain areas.  Puppy pens (look for one that is fairly high) also can help contain them or even extend the area they are confined in by attaching it to the crate.  But know it might not last long as they are great climbers and jumpers!

DO expect potty accidents. Potty training can take patience. Generally, puppies need to go out as soon as they wake up (or taken out of their crate), after they eat, after they have a burst of energy and playtime, and before bedtime (being crated).  Of course, you need to watch for signs, sniffing, turning in circles and squatting (or standing still for boys) are all signs they need to be rushed out!

DO keep your puppy on a high quality food and consider supplementing with fresh foods. If/ when you switch, do so slowly! Changing foods can cause tummy issues. We no longer require you to keep your pups on Nuvet, but if you are interested in vitamins, it is a great option.

DO consider puppy training class and puppy proofing your home. If you do not have experience training pups, please consider a class. Remember behaviors that are cute now will not be cute at 6 months old!! Manners like, sit, down, stay (hehe), drop it, leave it, wait, off, are very important! Puppies are ALL teeth and mouths at this stage!! Just like toddlers put everything in their mouths so do puppies! Do not let your hands become toys… it sounds silly but I know many folks who use their hands to play with puppies and then complain when the puppies grab their hands at other times and insist their puppy is mean! NO, you just taught them that hands are toys! Since puppies use their mouths to explore their surroundings it is also a good idea to keep things off the floor and out of reach if at all possible. Shoes, wires, bras (yes bras), socks, ponytail holders, diapers, game controllers, charging cords, etc.

DO keep your puppy current on all vaccinations, as well as flea and heartworm treatment and prevention. Find a vet you trust! Please remember your pet is NOT fully protected until they have had their complete series of vaccinations!

DO NOT leave your puppy unsupervised with children! Please! So many sad stories in the news… it breaks my heart! Also just like you have to train a puppy to be easy and gentle with kids, you need to train/teach your children to be easy and gentle with their new puppies! Please, Please, Please do not allow your child to ride their dog, pull ears, tails, grab faces, etc. If a child runs, a puppy will chase them and more times than not they will knock them down. It’s natural, but the puppy gets blamed for being too rough and mean. Both child and puppy need education on how to behave! Another reason I recommend training classes.

DO offer plenty of exercise, toys and interaction, a bored husky is a destructive husky.  Huskies are pack animals, they need your love and attention. Look up canine enrichment activities, keep them mentally and physically active. With that being said, please be mindful of your puppies age and development and not to over exercise them. Over doing it (including high impact actives like using stairs, jumping off furniture, etc) can cause damage to growth plates that are still developing and injure joints, etc.

DO try to avoid possible separation anxiety issues by not packing your husky around like a baby or Chihuahua! In most cases separation anxiety is our fault!

DO NOT leave your husky (or any dog) out in extreme weather (hot or cold). Kiddie Pools, Ice, Frozen Treats are fun summer outside activities in the heat. Also, save walks for early morning or late evening in the summer! But access to air conditioning at the hottest part of the day is a MUST!  Do not get a husky if you are going to leave it outside!! Watch for hot concrete and asphalt! The pads of their feet will burn!

DO have fun, love them, care for them and know that like children they will act up, make mistakes and be naughty! Love them anyway!!

Upcoming Litters: Stages of Labor

In some instances the first stage of labor is missed altogether.

Signs to watch for are:

  • Nesting behavior
  • Dam could become distressed (including: pacing, acting uncomfortable, panting, restlessness, discomfort, licking vulva, vomiting, and frequent urination.)
  • Temperature should be taken three times per day and should be 100-100.8° prior to labor.
    When temp drops considerably, to 98-99° puppies should present themselves within 24 hours. At this time, inform your vet of pending puppies. After the drop the temp will stay at about 99.4
  • Dam may refuse food as her appetite goes away.
  • Stools may turn dark.
  • Do not let dam out to relieve herself without supervision.
  • Offer smaller meals, and maybe try some more expensive canned food.

The first stage of labor can last 24 hours, and can go totally unnoticed. Do NOT give calcium during this stage of dilating. Calcium can only be given when contractions are a minute apart, and she is constantly pushing.

The second stage usually begins with a rather clear or mucous-like discharge from the vulva. In the second stage of labor contractions should start. There will be more discharge, and the presentation of a round, golf-ball size membrane sac of water. This sac is still the 2nd stage of labor and dilating. Do not give calcium. She is not ready to push. This is usually just the horn sac. Pup can follow in 20 minutes to a few hours. Some vets recommend not letting her puncture this sac. This is the protective sac that the puppies are in. But do not fret if she pops it. This is her water breaking. After presentation of this sac, the puppy could be out in about 30 minutes, but it can take a couple of hours.

The third stage of labor is the presentation of puppy and delivery of placenta

Upcoming Litters: Week 9 {Texas Husky Breeders}

Week 8

Sun 1 July 2018 – Sat 8 July 2018

  • Nipples and vulva should be gently cleaned with warm water, you might want to trim the hairs surrounding the nipples, to allow easier access for the puppies to suck.
  • She may express milk from her nipples.
  • Watch for her temperature to drop.
  • She may also become restless, seek seclusion and in the last few days, soil the house.
  • She will be ‘nesting’ 12-24 hours before the birth

Mon 9 July 2918

  • Expected date of whelp. Average is 62 days but may take place from the 58th to the 68th day.
  • Keep watching for that temp drop. If you’re actually taking the temp, it does drop from 101 to 98 degrees.
  • Appetite will disappear as whelping approaches.
  • May see a clear discharge from the vulva.
  • At onset of labor may pace, dig, shiver, pant and/or vomit.
  • First fetus will be delivered within 4 hours of the onset of labor.

Please remember these calculations are based on Amara’s first tie. That may or may not be the one that took. It all depends on when she ovulated. Autumn’s first tie was 4 days after Amara.  Please adjust the above dates accordingly.  In the past both girls have gone several days past their estimated due dates so do not let that concern you. I will keep you updated the best I can while keeping my girls a priority.

Both girls are showing with little round tummies.  Amara continues to spend a lot of time in her puppy room.  She prefers to be out of the way of the pack.  Autumn is the opposite she likes to be where the action is. Both girls have strong appetites and do not seem to be uncomfortable in anyway.

If you have any questions please feel free to message me. I will continue to update on the facebook page.  😀